FMB's fitment guides document the OEM configurations and aftermarket setups that owners of a given platform have actually run. Each guide is a researched starting point for speccing a custom forged wheel build — not a database of setups FMB has tested on the road. This page explains how to read every element of those guides: what the OEM badges mean, how to interpret the aftermarket card data (stance, tags, source signals), how the platform alert works, and where the line falls between what FMB verifies and what your installer handles on the car. If you're about to spec a build, spend three minutes here first — the guides become a lot more useful once you know what you're looking at.
About this page: The fitment guides on this site are compiled from owner builds on platform-specific forums and customer cars in wheel-maker fitment galleries, cross-checked against vendor fitment documentation. Use them as research for your build; ride height, tires, and alignment are still your installer's call.
Every fitment guide on this site follows the same structure. Once you've read one, you've read them all — the only thing that changes is the platform-specific data inside the cards. Here's the map:
Page intro and About this guide notice. Sets context for the platform — what's covered, which production phases the guide includes, which community sources fed the research. The About this guide notice also notes what stays with your installer: ride height, tires, and alignment.
Jump navigation pills. Direct links to Factory Specs (OEM section), Square Setups, Staggered Setups, and FAQ. Use these to jump straight to what you need on a long guide. On platforms where every documented setup is staggered (or every one is square), the empty section and its pill are left out.
Factory Wheel & Tire Configurations (OEM section). Opens with a hub and hardware card for the whole platform (bolt pattern, center bore, fastener type, thread pitch, seat type, torque, factory offsets and brakes), followed by every USDM factory wheel across production phases — standard equipment, optional upgrades, and accessory items like winter wheel packages. Each OEM card lists the front and rear wheel and tire sizes, construction (forged/cast/flow formed), and which trims and model years it applies to.
Aftermarket Wheel & Tire Configurations. Opens with an at-a-glance table of every setup, then a consolidated platform alert covering the chassis-specific concerns that affect aftermarket choices. The cards follow, split into Square Setup and Staggered Setup subsections. Each card is one wheel size, with a stance scale, platform tags, spec block, offset ladder of documented builds, source signal and config note.
What happens when you build with FMB. The process section: you choose a setup from the documented builds, our manufacturing partner runs the engineering verification on the wheel, and you approve the render before production. It ends with FMB's fitment guarantee: every set mounts on your car, made to the exact width and offset you approved.
FAQ. Platform-specific common questions — OEM specs, hardware torque, aftermarket sizing at stock ride height, brake clearance, drivetrain differences, spacers, winter wheels, and which model years the guide covers. The verification steps and the fitment guarantee live in the process section just above it.
OEM cards document every factory wheel offered on the platform in the US market. They're useful for two reasons: knowing what came on your specific car (so you can compare aftermarket options to the OEM baseline), and identifying compatible OEM upgrades or replacements. Each card shows the wheel name and style number, badge, front and rear wheel and tire sizes, construction, what it applies to, and a config note about year-era attribution, brake compatibility, or anything platform-specific.
Standard. The wheel that ships on the configuration described (usually a trim level + production phase, sometimes also a specific package like M Sport). If the badge says "Standard with M Sport Package — Pre-LCI (2020-2022)," that wheel shipped on M Sport-equipped cars during the pre-LCI production phase. A platform may have multiple Standard wheels across different phases.
Optional. A wheel available from the factory as an upgrade or alternative — not standard delivery, but a documented OEM offering at order time. Often badged with the upgrade price when known, or with the production phase it was available in.
Accessory. A wheel sold separately as a post-purchase accessory, typically winter wheel packages or dealer-installed performance upgrades. The wheel is OEM in that it's sold and warrantied by the manufacturer, but it isn't a production-line factory fitment.
Many platforms go through mid-generation refreshes that change standard wheel equipment without changing the underlying hardware. The G20 M340i, for example, has three production phases (pre-LCI 2020-2022, LCI1 2023-2024, LCI2 2025-2026) — each phase had a different standard wheel design, but bolt pattern, center bore, and overall dimensions stayed identical. The OEM cards split these by phase so you can identify which wheel actually came on your car.
The current standard delivery wheel is always listed first in the OEM section. Older standard wheels (for earlier production phases of the current generation) follow in chronological order, then optional wheels, then accessory wheels.
Each OEM card identifies the wheel's construction: forged, cast, or flow formed. Forged wheels are denser and stronger per pound than cast and flow formed, but they're rare from the factory — most OEM wheels are cast aluminum, even on performance trims. A genuinely forged OEM wheel is worth noting because the weight advantage carries over to the aftermarket: replacing a forged OEM wheel with a forged aftermarket wheel of similar dimensions is usually a small weight reduction, while replacing a cast OEM wheel with a forged aftermarket wheel is often a significant unsprung-mass reduction.
Bolt pattern, center bore, fastener type (lug nuts vs lug bolts), thread pitch, torque spec, seat type, factory offsets and brake packages sit on the hub and hardware card at the top of the OEM section, because they rarely change between wheels on one platform. If a value differs by trim (two hub types, for example), the card names both. It's the answer to "what hardware does my car use," useful when ordering lug bolts or nuts, hub-centric rings or wheel locks.
The aftermarket section documents what owners have actually run on the platform — sourced from forum build threads, customer cars shown in wheel-maker fitment galleries, vendor fitment guides, and shop install writeups. Each card is one wheel size that's been documented on the car, and each row inside it is one documented build at its own offset.
Cards are organized into two subsections: Square Setup (same wheel and tire on all four corners) and Staggered Setup (wider rear than front). This is a fitment-architecture choice you make about your car — affects tire rotation behavior, visual character, and how the car wears tires over time. The stance scale (the dot indicator inside each card) tells you how aggressive a setup is on the OEM-to-aggressive spectrum, which is a different dimension from square vs. staggered.
Within each subsection, cards are ordered by stance (starting from the lowest dot each card covers, most conservative first) and source strength. A Most Popular badge — when present — flags the platform's consensus pick and appears first in its subsection regardless of stance.
Before the cards, every guide lists all of its setups in one table: the wheel sizes and documented offsets, tire sizes, stance, fit, drivetrain and number of sources. Tap a setup to jump to its full card. The Fit column only states what owners documented: Bolt-on means documented at stock ride height with no fender work reported, Lowered means documented on lowering springs or coilovers, Track build marks dedicated track setups, Mods may be needed means owners reported changes such as camber plates or hardware swaps, and Not reported means owners didn't say.
Every aftermarket card has the same elements in a fixed visual order: badge (if present), stance scale, platform tags, spec block, offset ladder, source signal, and config note. The next sections explain each one. Here's an example card (this is a synthetic illustration, not a real platform configuration):
Read top to bottom: badge first (if present), then stance gives you the aggression read at a glance, tags tell you whether this setup fits your car and how owners use it, the spec block is the wheel size, the offset ladder shows each documented build and how far it sits from stock, the source signal is the evidence depth, and the config note is the human-readable detail about what to know.
The stance scale is the five-dot indicator at the top of every aftermarket card. It ranks each setup against the other setups documented for the same car: 1 dot marks the mild end of what owners run on that car, and 5 dots the aggressive end. It doesn't measure distance from your stock wheels. The Front and Rear "mm out" figures on each documented build do that.
The label on the left reads Stance · flush → poke. The scale runs left to right from OEM to Aggressive. The OEM end marks the mild end of the setups documented for that car, not your stock wheels, and the Aggressive end marks the outboard end. On cards with several documented builds, the label reads Stance range and the dots show the span from the mildest build to the most aggressive one.
Here's what each dot count means:
1 dot — Mild end. At or near the closest-to-stock setups documented for that car. On some cars even the mildest documented setup sits well outside the factory wheels, so check the mm out figures on the card.
2 dots — Conservative. Toward the mild end of what owners run on that car.
3 dots — Balanced. The middle of the documented range for that car, where many Most Popular setups sit.
4 dots — Aggressive. Toward the outboard end of the documented range. Owners at this level more often report lowering, camber changes or fender work.
5 dots — Aggressive end. At or near the most outboard setups owners run on that car, usually committed builds rather than daily setups.
The stance scale compares setups within one car, not across cars. A 3-dot setup on one car can sit much further out than a 3-dot setup on another, because each car's scale is set by its own documented builds. To compare cars, or to see exactly how far a setup sits from stock, use the Front and Rear mm out figures.
Each aftermarket card has exactly two tags: a drivetrain tag and a use intent tag. They're the fast-triage signals for "does this setup fit my car" and "is this aligned with how I'd actually use the car."
The drivetrain tag tells you which drivetrain configurations the setup is documented on. Three common values:
Documented on rear-wheel-drive cars only. Setups carrying this tag haven't been documented on the AWD variant of the same platform, which can differ in front geometry and in how it handles a front-to-rear rolling diameter difference. Don't assume cross-compatibility.
Documented on all-wheel-drive variants only, not on the RWD variant. On staggered AWD setups, check the front-to-rear rolling diameter against your owner's manual (see the AWD section below).
Documented on both RWD and AWD variants of the platform. The configuration has community evidence across both drivetrains. (On non-BMW platforms, this tag may read "RWD + AWD" or "RWD + quattro" or "RWD + 4MATIC" — same meaning, manufacturer-appropriate terminology.)
The use intent tag captures how owners running this configuration most commonly use the car. It's an editorial judgment based on the body of documented evidence — the suspension brands typically paired with the setup, the tire types, the ride heights, and the reported outcomes. Three values:
Documented as bolt-on at stock ride height, no fender modification required, no spacers needed. Wheel widths and offsets at or near OEM. Frequently paired with all-season or summer tire compounds that prioritize comfort over grip. The setup most commonly documented as "no rubbing" on multi-year owner builds. Default intent for the platform's anchor flush configurations.
Documented as optimized for performance over visual aggression. Often square (enables tire rotation for even wear under track-day use), narrower tire profiles for stiffer sidewall response, may require specific brake clearance verification. Cards explicitly documented with track-compound tires or in builds running aftermarket coilovers with negative camber. Function-first setups.
Documented in builds where visual aggression takes priority over full-lock compliance or ride comfort. Often lowered ride height required, wider widths, may require aftermarket fender liners or alignment adjustments. Cards documented almost exclusively on lowered builds where visual impact takes priority. Aesthetic-first setups.
A setup carrying a single intent tag doesn't mean other intents are excluded. A Daily-tagged setup can absolutely be driven aggressively; a Track-tagged setup can be a perfectly competent daily-driver. The tag reflects what the community most consistently associates with that exact configuration. Use it as a fast triage signal, not as a hard restriction.
The spec block names the wheel size the card covers. Each card is one size: one front diameter × width and one rear diameter × width (or one size on all four corners for square setups). Two layouts:
Staggered setups show two blocks, Front Wheels and Rear Wheels. When several builds are documented at the size, a line under each reads Documented ET30 – ET35, the range of offsets owners have run. A card with one documented build shows its single offset instead. Tire sizes vary from build to build, so they sit on the ladder rows.
Square setups show one full-width block for the wheels (with "(Front and Rear)" notation) and, when every documented build runs the same tire, a full-width tire block (with "(All 4)" notation). Otherwise tires sit on the rows.
Under the spec block, the ladder lists every documented build at that size, one row per build. Each row shows:
The offsets. Front and rear, e.g. ET35 / ET40, at the effective offset the car actually runs (see spacers below).
Front and Rear mm out. How many millimetres the outer lip of the front and rear wheel sits outside the factory wheel named at the top of the ladder ("Lip position vs. stock"). A build that sits inside the factory wheel reads "mm in." This is the figure to use when you want to know exactly how far out a setup sits, or to compare setups across cars.
Condition chips. Documented facts only, from a fixed list: Stock height, Lowered (with the amount when reported), Via spacers, and brake restrictions such as Steel brakes only.
The build. Model year and trim, tire sizes and model, suspension when reported, and what the owner reported. Rows run from least to most outboard, so if your car is at stock height, start at the top.
Wheel dimensions are written as diameter × width ET-offset. For example, 19×9 ET25 reads as 19-inch diameter, 9-inch width, ET25 (positive 25mm) offset. A lower ET puts the wheel face further outboard; a higher ET pulls it inboard.
Rim width moves the lip too. A wider rim at the same offset moves the outer lip outboard and the inner barrel inboard, each by half the extra width. So every mm out figure counts both: (aftermarket width − factory width) × 12.7, plus (factory offset − aftermarket offset). For example, a 19×9 ET35 front against a factory 8.5J ET38 wheel sits 0.5 × 12.7 + 3 ≈ 9mm out.
Because the figures are in millimetres, they read the right way round: a bigger number is further out. That's why the guides don't use plus or minus offset changes, which read backwards to anyone used to thinking in ET.
Tire sizes use the standard ISO format: section-width / aspect-ratio / R + rim-diameter.
For example, 255/35R19 reads as a 255mm-wide tire with a 35% aspect ratio (sidewall height as a percentage of section width) on a 19-inch rim. The R indicates radial construction (universal on modern tires). Smaller section width means narrower tire; lower aspect ratio means shorter sidewall (stiffer ride, less cushion, more responsive steering).
Tire section width is the manufacturer's labeled width; the actual mounted width varies slightly depending on the rim it's mounted on. A 255 tire on a 9-inch rim mounts narrower than the same 255 tire on a 9.5-inch rim. Tire mounting compatibility ranges (which rim widths a given tire size can be safely mounted on) are universal across tire brands.
When an owner runs "wheel offset X plus a Y mm spacer," the ladder lists the build at its effective offset (X minus Y) and marks it Via spacers.
For example, an owner build on 19×9.5 ET25 with a 5mm spacer is listed as 19×9.5 ET20. FMB builds every wheel at its offset directly, so a set ordered from that row needs no spacer: the offset is machined into the wheel.
The source signal is the trust indicator on every aftermarket card — a descriptor plus a count of sources by category. It shows how well-documented the configuration is and where the documentation came from. Two categories appear:
Community sources. Specific owner cars: build threads on platform-specific forums (Bimmerpost, M3Post, Rennlist, Tesla Motors Club, MBWorld, etc.) and platform-active subreddits, classified listings that describe the car, and customer cars shown in wheel-maker fitment galleries or vendor forum posts. Each car counts once, even if it appears in several threads or albums.
Vendor sources. A vendor's own published setups with no specific customer car behind them: fitment guides, wheel manufacturer chassis-specific fitment pages, vendor technical articles, and specialist install writeups. A vendor fitment guide counts once per card. Retail listings that simply sell a wheel or wheel-and-tire package aren't counted as sources.
FMB shows both because the two categories tell different stories. Community sources show what owners are actually running on their cars. Vendor sources show what wheel makers and shops publish as fitting the platform. The cross-reference of both is more credible than either alone.
The descriptor on the left of the source signal summarizes the depth and mix of evidence in three tiers:
Documented. Single source category with 1-3 sources total. The configuration has evidence — at least one named owner build or one vendor fitment guide documents it working — but isn't yet broadly verified across the community. Thin evidence is honest evidence; the count tells you what you're working with.
Well-documented. Both source categories present, or 4+ sources in a single category. The configuration is verified across multiple independent sources — typically a mix of community builds and vendor documentation. The level of evidence where most reasonable buyers feel confident moving forward.
Strongly documented. Both source categories present, with 4+ community sources AND 2+ vendor sources. The configuration is the platform's most-verified setup — broadly documented across owner builds and commercial fitment work. Setups that earn this tier are typically the platform's anchor flush specs and frequently carry the Most Popular badge.
The descriptor is mechanical, not editorial — cards are assigned descriptors based on the source mix shown in the count, not based on FMB's interpretive judgment of "how good" the setup is. This keeps treatment consistent across guides.
The config note is the prose block at the bottom of each card — the human-readable detail about what the configuration actually does in practice. It's where the editorial work lives: what production years the setup is documented on, which suspension states owners typically pair it with, whether owners report clean clearance or mention specific issues, what brake compatibility looks like, and any platform-specific nuances.
Config notes are observational, not prescriptive. They describe what owners have reported, not what FMB recommends you do. The voice is "documented across multiple build threads" or "owners typically report" — not "this fits" or "we recommend." The reason: every car comes to a build with its own combination of trim, brake package, ride height, tire choice, and installer. FMB documents what's been seen working; the buyer brings the specifics of their own car to the decision.
Tire brand mentions in config notes are framed as "commonly paired" options, not endorsements. Suspension brand mentions (when present) are framed as the documented suspension state of named owner builds — "documented on a build running brand-X springs" — not as endorsements or recommendations. Specific aftermarket wheel brands and forum usernames don't appear in config notes; the credibility signal lives in the source count and the build context, not in name-dropping.
A Most Popular badge appears on at most one card per subsection (one in Square Setup, one in Staggered Setup, or one across the whole aftermarket section depending on the platform). The badge flags the platform's consensus pick — the configuration that's most-documented and most-commonly-chosen across the community.
The badge goes to the platform's most-documented setup. Ideally that card is also Strongly documented (4+ community and 2+ vendor sources). When no card on a platform reaches that level, the badge goes to the card with the broadest mix of sources, or it's left off. The source signal on the badged card shows you which case you're looking at.
The Most Popular badge can appear in either Square Setup or Staggered Setup — it's not anchored to a specific configuration type. On platforms where the anchor flush spec is a staggered setup, the badge sits in the Staggered subsection. On platforms where the anchor is a square spec, the badge sits in Square. The badge follows the evidence.
Within each Square Setup or Staggered Setup subsection, cards are ordered by a fixed rule:
1. Most Popular card first (if present). The badge takes ordering priority regardless of stance — the platform's consensus pick should be the first card a reader sees in the section.
2. Then by stance, lowest first. Cards are sorted by the lowest dot they cover, 1 → 5. After the Most Popular card, the remaining cards run from mildest to most aggressive. This produces a natural reading narrative: start at the platform's consensus pick, then walk through the options from conservative to aggressive.
3. Within the same starting dot: descriptor descending (Strongly documented → Well-documented → Documented). When two cards start at the same stance level, the better-documented card leads.
4. Within identical stance and descriptor: by use intent (Daily → Track → Show). The same stance level with similar evidence depth gets ordered by use intent, with Daily first (most generally applicable) and Show last (most lifestyle-specific).
5. Final tiebreaker: editorial judgment. Typically the more conservative tire choice or the more daily-friendly variant comes first.
Every fitment guide opens its Aftermarket section with a consolidated platform alert — the orange-bordered box covering platform-critical fitment concerns. It's the most important single element on the page for buyers planning their build. Here's an example showing the structure:
Aggressive front offsets at wider rim widths can produce rubbing against front fender liners and brake cooling duct outlets at full steering lock. Owners running this range commonly report fender liner trimming or aftermarket liner replacement as the documented solution.
Cars equipped with upgraded brake packages have tighter spoke-to-caliper clearance than cars with standard brakes. Confirm spoke-to-caliper clearance against your specific wheel design before committing.
Staggered configurations can produce front-to-rear rolling diameter mismatches that may stress AWD systems over time. Verify the math against your owner manual before committing — see the AWD rolling diameter section below for the full explanation.
The alert is structured with bold internal sub-headers so you can scan it for the specific concern that affects your build. It's kept to about three concerns, the ones that change what you order; everything else is covered in the FAQ. Typical concerns:
Front fender liner clearance. Offset and width combinations that produce contact at full steering lock, particularly with track-compound tires.
Brake caliper clearance with upgraded brakes. Whether upgraded brake packages (CCB, BBK, M Performance, AMG-spec, etc.) constrain wheel design choices independently of offset.
Inner strut / knuckle clearance. Wide-front wheels at higher offsets sometimes contact inner suspension components.
AWD rolling diameter on staggered setups. Whether the platform's AWD system has known sensitivity to front-to-rear rolling diameter mismatch. (Long-form treatment below.)
Year-era differences. Whether a mid-generation refresh introduced fitment behavior changes that affect buyers shopping today.
Fasteners and seat type. Lug bolts or nuts, centerlock hubs, and the factory seat. FMB machines wheels for 60° conical lug hardware by default; on cars with factory ball-seat bolts you can ask, when ordering, for wheels machined to keep them.
If you're skimming a guide and don't have time to read the entire aftermarket section, read the platform alert. It's where the chassis-specific warnings live.
If your car is AWD and you're considering a staggered setup, the front-to-rear rolling diameter mismatch is the single most important variable to verify before committing. It's also the variable FMB explicitly does not characterize on your behalf. Here's why, and how to handle it.
Rolling diameter is the actual circumference a tire rolls through in one revolution. It's a function of the tire's section width, aspect ratio, and rim diameter — and slightly affected by load and inflation, but for fitment purposes the labeled spec is close enough.
When front and rear tires have different rolling diameters (because the staggered setup uses different tire sizes front to rear), the front wheels rotate at a slightly different rate than the rear wheels for any given vehicle speed. On a RWD car, this is harmless — the front wheels aren't driven, so they spin freely at whatever rate the tire size dictates. On an AWD car, the drivetrain must continuously reconcile that mismatch, and how much mismatch it tolerates varies by manufacturer.
Manufacturer AWD tolerance specifications vary widely across platforms — and FMB doesn't have the manufacturer-published tolerance data to make platform-by-platform comparisons authoritatively. Subaru, Audi quattro, BMW xDrive, Mercedes 4MATIC, Tesla AWD, and others each have their own specified tolerance, sometimes documented in the owner manual, sometimes only available through dealer service literature.
Naming specific manufacturer rigor levels in fitment content ("Subaru is strict, BMW is moderate") creates a liability risk for any buyer whose setup happens to fall outside their car's actual specification. FMB's position: document the tire dimensions of every staggered configuration, direct buyers to their owner manual for tolerance verification, and keep the on-FMB-side scope to what we can actually verify.
For any AWD staggered configuration you're considering:
1. Find your manufacturer's AWD rolling diameter tolerance. Owner manual, manufacturer technical service bulletins, dealer service literature, or platform-specific community FAQ entries. It's usually expressed as a maximum percentage difference between front and rear rolling diameters.
2. Calculate the rolling diameter of each tire size in the setup. Many tire manufacturer websites publish this directly, or you can compute it: rolling diameter = (section width × aspect ratio × 2 / 25.4) + rim diameter, all in inches. For example, a 275/35R19 calculates as (275 × 0.35 × 2 / 25.4) + 19 = 26.58 inches.
3. Compute the percentage difference. ((larger diameter − smaller diameter) / larger diameter) × 100. If the front tire diameter is 26.0 inches and the rear is 26.6 inches, the difference is (26.6 − 26.0) / 26.6 × 100 = 2.26%.
4. Compare to your manufacturer's tolerance. If the calculated difference is within tolerance, the setup is mechanically compatible with your AWD system. If it exceeds tolerance, the setup may stress drivetrain components over time even if it fits the fenders cleanly.
An aftermarket staggered setup that's been documented working on many community builds may still be outside your specific car's AWD tolerance. Community evidence is useful but not authoritative for this specific question — the manufacturer's specification is what matters, and the only way to verify is to do the math against your own car's documented tolerance.
If a configuration comes close to your manufacturer's tolerance, confirm with the manufacturer's spec before ordering. Many buyers in this position step down to a less aggressive rear tire — running a 275 instead of a 285, for example — which preserves the visual character of the staggered setup while bringing the rolling diameter back into tolerance.
The most important section on this page, editorially. The fitment guides are research documents — they tell you what owners have run, not what's guaranteed to work on your car. Here's the line FMB draws, in two halves:
The wheel itself. Before production, our manufacturing partner confirms the wheel specs: bolt pattern, center bore, brake caliper clearance for your brake package, backspacing and load rating. This is the engineering verification.
That the set mounts on your car. Every set comes with FMB's fitment guarantee: the right bolt pattern, bored to your hub, machined for 60° conical lug hardware (or your factory ball-seat bolts if you ask when ordering), and made to the exact width and offset you approved. The guarantee covers how the wheel mounts, not how it sits at your ride height.
Ride height clearance on lowered vehicles. The amount of suspension drop you run affects clearance to fenders and tire-to-fender contact in ways that depend on your specific coilover or spring choice, your alignment, and how the car settles. FMB cannot verify this for your car.
Specific tire brand or model behavior. Tires within the same size designation behave differently across brands and compounds. A 285/30R19 in one brand may contact the fender at a ride height where the same size in another brand doesn't. FMB doesn't test tire-by-tire and cannot verify this.
Alignment outcomes. The right camber, toe, and caster for your setup depend on your car, your driving style, your tires, and your installer's preferences. FMB doesn't prescribe alignment specs.
Suspension component interactions. If your car runs a non-OEM suspension setup, the geometry can move clearance points in ways that affect how a documented setup performs on your specific car.
AWD rolling diameter compatibility for staggered configurations. Per the section above, this is the buyer's responsibility against the manufacturer's specified tolerance.
Any fitment outcome that depends on variables set on the car by you or your installer. The car you're putting the wheels on has its own history, its own modifications, and its own state — variables FMB doesn't have visibility into. Your installer does.
The short version: FMB verifies the wheel and guarantees that the set mounts on your car. How it sits on your specific car is the conversation between you and your installer. The fitment guides give you the research foundation to make that conversation informed — they don't substitute for it.
If you're not sure how a specific setup will sit on your car, bring the documented spec to a wheel-and-tire installer or shop and have them confirm it against your car's current state. Our guarantee covers mounting; ride height, tire and alignment outcomes stay with your installer.
Every fitment guide on this site uses the same structure, the same card data model, and the same verification scope described on this page. Pick a platform from the guide library and apply what you've read here — the guides become significantly more useful once the card elements are familiar. If you have questions about a specific setup on a specific car, the build form is the right place to start that conversation.