FMB's fitment guides document the OEM configurations and aftermarket setups that owners of a given platform have actually run. Each guide is a researched starting point for speccing a custom forged wheel build — not a database of setups FMB has tested on the road. This page explains how to read every element of those guides: what the OEM badges mean, how to interpret the aftermarket card data (stance, tags, source signals), how the platform alert works, and where the line falls between what FMB verifies and what your installer handles on the car. If you're about to spec a build, spend three minutes here first — the guides become a lot more useful once you know what you're looking at.
About this page: The fitment guides on this site are compiled from owner-submitted builds and enthusiast forum research across platform-specific communities. We summarize what owners have reported running successfully so you have a researched starting point for your build — but the guides are reference material, not personalized fitment advice.
Every FMB build goes through a sanity check and an engineering verification before forging. We cross-reference the configuration you're ordering against your trim and brake package and what's commonly documented on similar builds — and our manufacturing partner verifies the wheel itself (backspace, brake caliper clearance, structural spec) before production begins.
Fitment decisions involving ride height, tire choice, and suspension setup are yours and your installer's call. Use the guides as research, not as a substitute for a real fitment conversation.
Every fitment guide on this site follows the same structure. Once you've read one, you've read them all — the only thing that changes is the platform-specific data inside the cards. Here's the map:
Page intro and About this guide notice. Sets context for the platform — what's covered, which production phases the guide includes, which community sources fed the research. The About this guide notice also frames FMB's verification scope.
Jump navigation pills. Direct links to Factory Specs (OEM section), Square Setups, Staggered Setups, and FAQ. Use these to jump straight to what you need on a long guide.
Factory Wheel & Tire Configurations (OEM section). Every USDM factory wheel for the platform across production phases — standard equipment, optional upgrades, and accessory items like winter wheel packages. Each OEM card lists complete specs: dimensions, offsets, tire sizes, hardware (bolt pattern, center bore, fastener type, thread pitch, torque, seat type), construction (forged/cast/flow formed), and which trims and model years the configuration applies to.
Aftermarket Wheel & Tire Configurations. Documented aftermarket setups split into Square Setup and Staggered Setup subsections. Each card carries a stance scale, platform tags, spec block, source signal, and config note describing what owners have reported. The section opens with a consolidated platform alert covering any chassis-specific fitment concerns that affect aftermarket choices.
What happens when you build with FMB. The process section explaining how FMB sanity-checks your configuration and how the manufacturing partner verifies the wheel itself before forging. This is also where the verification scope is reinforced.
FAQ. Platform-specific common questions — OEM specs, hardware torque, aftermarket sizing at stock ride height, brake clearance, drivetrain differences, spacers, winter wheels, and FMB's verification process. Every guide closes with the same verification FAQ so you can find the verification scope answer regardless of which guide you're reading.
OEM cards document every factory wheel offered on the platform in the US market. They're useful for two reasons: knowing what came on your specific car (so you can compare aftermarket options to the OEM baseline), and identifying compatible OEM upgrades or replacements. Each card shows the wheel name and style number, badge, complete spec grid, and a config note about year-era attribution, brake compatibility, or anything platform-specific.
Standard. The wheel that ships on the configuration described (usually a trim level + production phase, sometimes also a specific package like M Sport). If the badge says "Standard with M Sport Package — Pre-LCI (2020-2022)," that wheel shipped on M Sport-equipped cars during the pre-LCI production phase. A platform may have multiple Standard wheels across different phases.
Optional. A wheel available from the factory as an upgrade or alternative — not standard delivery, but a documented OEM offering at order time. Often badged with the upgrade price when known, or with the production phase it was available in.
Accessory. A wheel sold separately as a post-purchase accessory, typically winter wheel packages or dealer-installed performance upgrades. The wheel is OEM in that it's sold and warrantied by the manufacturer, but it isn't a production-line factory fitment.
Many platforms go through mid-generation refreshes that change standard wheel equipment without changing the underlying hardware. The G20 M340i, for example, has three production phases (pre-LCI 2020-2022, LCI1 2023-2024, LCI2 2025-2026) — each phase had a different standard wheel design, but bolt pattern, center bore, and overall dimensions stayed identical. The OEM cards split these by phase so you can identify which wheel actually came on your car.
The current standard delivery wheel is always listed first in the OEM section. Older standard wheels (for earlier production phases of the current generation) follow in chronological order, then optional wheels, then accessory wheels.
Each OEM card identifies the wheel's construction: forged, cast, or flow formed. Forged wheels are denser and stronger per pound than cast and flow formed, but they're rare from the factory — most OEM wheels are cast aluminum, even on performance trims. A genuinely forged OEM wheel is worth noting because the weight advantage carries over to the aftermarket: replacing a forged OEM wheel with a forged aftermarket wheel of similar dimensions is usually a small weight reduction, while replacing a cast OEM wheel with a forged aftermarket wheel is often a significant unsprung-mass reduction.
Bolt pattern, center bore, fastener type (lug nuts vs lug bolts), thread pitch, torque spec, and seat type are listed on every OEM card but usually repeat across all configurations on a single platform. They're the answer to "what hardware does my car use" — useful when ordering wheels, lug bolts, spacers, hub-centric rings, or wheel locks.
The aftermarket section documents what owners have actually run on the platform — sourced from forum build threads, vendor fitment guides, and shop install writeups. Each card represents one specific configuration that's been documented working, not a hypothetical possibility.
Cards are organized into two subsections: Square Setup (same wheel and tire on all four corners) and Staggered Setup (wider rear than front). This is a fitment-architecture choice you make about your car — affects tire rotation behavior, visual character, and how the car wears tires over time. The stance scale (the dot indicator inside each card) tells you how aggressive a setup is on the OEM-to-aggressive spectrum, which is a different dimension from square vs. staggered.
Within each subsection, cards are ordered by stance (most conservative first, most aggressive last) and source strength. A Most Popular badge — when present — flags the platform's consensus pick and appears first in its subsection regardless of stance.
Every aftermarket card has five elements in a fixed visual order: badge (if present), stance scale, platform tags, spec block, source signal, and config note. The next sections explain each one. Here's an example card showing all five elements (this is a synthetic illustration, not a real platform configuration):
Read top to bottom: badge first (if present), then stance gives you the aggression read at a glance, tags tell you whether this setup fits your car and how owners use it, the spec block is the actual wheel and tire dimensions, the source signal is the evidence depth, and the config note is the human-readable detail about what to know.
The stance scale is the five-dot indicator at the top of every aftermarket card. It shows where the configuration sits on the OEM-to-aggressive spectrum for that specific platform. The scale is platform-relative — what counts as a 3-dot setup on a forgiving platform may correspond to a meaningfully different setup on a tight platform. Read the dots in context with the rest of the card and the platform-specific alert.
The label on the left reads Stance · flush → poke. The scale itself runs left to right from OEM (least aggressive) to Aggressive (most aggressive). Filled dots indicate the configuration's position on the spectrum.
Here's what each dot count typically corresponds to:
1 dot — Most conservative. The most OEM-similar documented aftermarket setup for the platform. Often matches OEM dimensions in aftermarket forged construction, or runs OEM-similar offsets in slightly different rim widths. Bolt-on at stock ride height with no fender attention needed.
2 dots — Conservative flush. Outboard face position increases of roughly 5–10mm vs OEM. No fender attention needed at stock ride height. A modest visual upgrade over OEM without entering aggressive territory.
3 dots — Balanced flush. The most common Most Popular tier on most platforms. Outboard face position increases of roughly 10–15mm vs OEM. Documented as bolt-on at stock height across multiple builds. The platform's anchor flush spec.
4 dots — Aggressive flush / mild aggressive. Outboard face position increases of roughly 15–25mm vs OEM. Commonly paired with mild lowering. May require minor fender attention, fender liner trimming, or attention to full-lock clearance with track-compound tires.
5 dots — Most aggressive. Outboard face position increases of 25mm+ vs OEM. Commonly requires fender rolling, lowered suspension, or negative camber to manage clearance. Documented as committed builds, not bolt-on street setups.
The stance scale is editorial, not mechanical. Two cards at "3 dots" on different platforms can have different actual offset numbers because the rubric scales to each platform's documented range. A 3-dot setup on a forgiving platform like the BMW M340i can run wider rim widths and lower offsets than a 3-dot setup on a tighter platform — but each is the balanced flush tier within its own platform's universe.
Each aftermarket card has exactly two tags: a drivetrain tag and a use intent tag. They're the fast-triage signals for "does this setup fit my car" and "is this aligned with how I'd actually use the car."
The drivetrain tag tells you which drivetrain configurations the setup is documented on. Three common values:
Documented on rear-wheel-drive cars only. Setups carrying this tag may not work on the AWD variant of the same platform — typically because of front geometry differences or rolling diameter constraints that AWD systems handle less tolerantly. Don't assume cross-compatibility.
Documented on all-wheel-drive variants only. Common for staggered setups where the tire pairing has been verified to fall within the AWD rolling diameter tolerance, but not documented on the lighter RWD variant.
Documented on both RWD and AWD variants of the platform. The configuration has community evidence across both drivetrains. (On non-BMW platforms, this tag may read "RWD + AWD" or "RWD + quattro" or "RWD + 4MATIC" — same meaning, manufacturer-appropriate terminology.)
The use intent tag captures how owners running this configuration most commonly use the car. It's an editorial judgment based on the body of documented evidence — the suspension brands typically paired with the setup, the tire types, the ride heights, and the reported outcomes. Three values:
Documented as bolt-on at stock ride height, no fender modification required, no spacers needed. Wheel widths and offsets at or near OEM. Frequently paired with all-season or summer tire compounds that prioritize comfort over grip. The setup most commonly documented as "no rubbing" on multi-year owner builds. Default intent for the platform's anchor flush configurations.
Documented as optimized for performance over visual aggression. Often square (enables tire rotation for even wear under track-day use), narrower tire profiles for stiffer sidewall response, may require specific brake clearance verification. Cards explicitly documented with track-compound tires or in builds running aftermarket coilovers with negative camber. Function-first setups.
Documented in builds where visual aggression takes priority over full-lock compliance or ride comfort. Often lowered ride height required, wider widths, may require aftermarket fender liners or alignment adjustments. Cards documented almost exclusively on lowered builds where visual impact takes priority. Aesthetic-first setups.
A setup carrying a single intent tag doesn't mean other intents are excluded. A Daily-tagged setup can absolutely be driven aggressively; a Track-tagged setup can be a perfectly competent daily-driver. The tag reflects what the community most consistently associates with that exact configuration. Use it as a fast triage signal, not as a hard restriction.
The spec block is the actual numerical configuration: wheel dimensions and tire sizes. Two layouts depending on configuration:
Square setups show two full-width blocks: one for wheels (with "(Front and Rear)" notation), one for tires (with "(All 4)" notation). The same wheel and same tire on all four corners.
Staggered setups show four smaller blocks in a 2×2 grid: Front Wheels, Rear Wheels, Front Tires, Rear Tires. Different dimensions or tire sizes front to rear.
Wheel dimensions are written as diameter × width ET-offset:
For example, 19×9 ET25 reads as 19-inch diameter, 9-inch width, ET25 (positive 25mm) offset. Higher ET pushes the wheel face more inboard relative to the mounting flange; lower ET pushes the wheel face more outboard. A wheel at the same width but lower offset puts the face further outboard — toward the fender edge, away from the inner suspension.
Rim width contributes to face position independently of offset. A wider rim at the same offset moves the wheel face outboard and the inner barrel inboard, both by half the additional width. This is why a 19×9.5 ET35 isn't simply 10mm more conservative than a 19×9 ET25 — the 0.5-inch wider rim adds its own ~6mm of face outboard movement. The config note on cards making specific outboard-distance claims accounts for both contributions.
Tire sizes use the standard ISO format: section-width / aspect-ratio / R + rim-diameter.
For example, 255/35R19 reads as a 255mm-wide tire with a 35% aspect ratio (sidewall height as a percentage of section width) on a 19-inch rim. The R indicates radial construction (universal on modern tires). Smaller section width means narrower tire; lower aspect ratio means shorter sidewall (stiffer ride, less cushion, more responsive steering).
Tire section width is the manufacturer's labeled width; the actual mounted width varies slightly depending on the rim it's mounted on. A 255 tire on a 9-inch rim mounts narrower than the same 255 tire on a 9.5-inch rim. Tire mounting compatibility ranges (which rim widths a given tire size can be safely mounted on) are universal across tire brands.
Each card commits to one specific offset and one specific rim width — no ranges. You won't see "ET28-30" or "10.5-11 inches wide" in the spec block. The reasoning is that FMB forges wheels at a specific spec, not within a range, and the published spec must reflect what would actually be forged.
When community documentation supports multiple offsets within a band, the most-commonly-documented offset becomes the card's committed spec, and the config note mentions adjacent variants in prose. If you want a slightly different offset than what's published, that's a conversation with FMB at the build form — but the published cards reflect what's been documented working on the platform.
Tire specs may list 2-3 documented options when those options are genuinely interchangeable on the same rim width without changing the card's fitment character. For example, a card might list "255/35R19 or 265/35R19" when both have community evidence on the same wheel spec. This is different from offset ranges, which directly change the as-forged geometry.
When community-documented builds run "wheel offset X plus a Y mm spacer," the published guide spec reflects the effective face position (X minus Y), not the raw wheel offset.
For example, a documented owner build on 19×9.5 ET25 with a 5mm front spacer is published in the guide as 19×9.5 ET20 — the effective face position. FMB delivers custom forged wheels at the spec'd offset, not wheel-plus-spacer combinations. The published spec must reflect what FMB would actually forge. The config note may reference the original spacer context for transparency.
The source signal is the trust indicator on every aftermarket card — a descriptor plus a count of sources by category. It shows how well-documented the configuration is and where the documentation came from. Two categories appear:
Community sources. Named owner build threads on platform-specific forums (Bimmerpost, M3Post, Rennlist, Tesla Motors Club, MBWorld, etc.) and platform-active subreddits. Each thread counts as one source. Multiple owners reporting the same configuration in the same thread is still one source — the count reflects independent build documentation, not posts.
Vendor sources. Published fitment guides from aftermarket retailers, wheel manufacturer chassis-specific fitment pages, vendor technical articles, vendor gallery showcases, and specialist install writeups from named tuners or shops. Vendor sources represent commercial documentation of the configuration — typically backed by the vendor's test-fit experience or build engineering.
FMB shows both because the two categories tell different stories. Community sources show what owners are actually running in the real world over time. Vendor sources show what's been validated through commercial test-fitting. The cross-reference of both is more credible than either alone.
The descriptor on the left of the source signal summarizes the depth and mix of evidence in three tiers:
Documented. Single source category with 1-3 sources total. The configuration has evidence — at least one named owner build or one vendor fitment guide documents it working — but isn't yet broadly verified across the community. Thin evidence is honest evidence; the count tells you what you're working with.
Well-documented. Both source categories present, or 4+ sources in a single category. The configuration is verified across multiple independent sources — typically a mix of community builds and vendor documentation. The level of evidence where most reasonable buyers feel confident moving forward.
Strongly documented. Both source categories present, with 4+ community sources AND 2+ vendor sources. The configuration is the platform's most-verified setup — broadly documented across owner builds and commercial fitment work. Setups that earn this tier are typically the platform's anchor flush specs and frequently carry the Most Popular badge.
The descriptor is mechanical, not editorial — cards are assigned descriptors based on the source mix shown in the count, not based on FMB's interpretive judgment of "how good" the setup is. This keeps treatment consistent across guides.
The config note is the prose block at the bottom of each card — the human-readable detail about what the configuration actually does in practice. It's where the editorial work lives: what production years the setup is documented on, which suspension states owners typically pair it with, whether owners report clean clearance or mention specific issues, what brake compatibility looks like, and any platform-specific nuances.
Config notes are observational, not prescriptive. They describe what owners have reported, not what FMB recommends you do. The voice is "documented across multiple build threads" or "owners typically report" — not "this fits" or "we recommend." The reason: every car comes to a build with its own combination of trim, brake package, ride height, tire choice, and installer. FMB documents what's been seen working; the buyer brings the specifics of their own car to the decision.
Tire brand mentions in config notes are framed as "commonly paired" options, not endorsements. Suspension brand mentions (when present) are framed as the documented suspension state of named owner builds — "documented on a build running brand-X springs" — not as endorsements or recommendations. Specific aftermarket wheel brands and forum usernames don't appear in config notes; the credibility signal lives in the source count and the build context, not in name-dropping.
A Most Popular badge appears on at most one card per subsection (one in Square Setup, one in Staggered Setup, or one across the whole aftermarket section depending on the platform). The badge flags the platform's consensus pick — the configuration that's most-documented and most-commonly-chosen across the community.
Any card carrying the Most Popular badge should also be Strongly documented in its source signal — the two are coupled. The platform's most-popular setup should also be the most-verified, by definition. If a card is genuinely the platform's most-documented configuration but doesn't meet the Strongly documented threshold during research, it ships without the badge.
The Most Popular badge can appear in either Square Setup or Staggered Setup — it's not anchored to a specific configuration type. On platforms where the anchor flush spec is a staggered setup, the badge sits in the Staggered subsection. On platforms where the anchor is a square spec, the badge sits in Square. The badge follows the evidence.
Within each Square Setup or Staggered Setup subsection, cards are ordered by a fixed rule:
1. Most Popular card first (if present). The badge takes ordering priority regardless of stance — the platform's consensus pick should be the first card a reader sees in the section.
2. Then by stance ascending (1 dot → 5 dots). After the Most Popular card, the remaining cards run from most OEM-similar to most aggressive. This produces a natural reading narrative: start at the platform's consensus pick, then walk through the options from conservative to aggressive.
3. Within identical stance counts: descriptor descending (Strongly documented → Well-documented → Documented). When two cards are at the same stance level, the better-documented card leads. This ensures evidence-strength is a primary sort within each aggression tier.
4. Within identical stance and descriptor: by use intent (Daily → Track → Show). The same stance level with similar evidence depth gets ordered by use intent, with Daily first (most generally applicable) and Show last (most lifestyle-specific).
5. Final tiebreaker: editorial judgment. Typically the more conservative tire choice or the more daily-friendly variant comes first.
Every fitment guide opens its Aftermarket section with a consolidated platform alert — the orange-bordered box covering platform-critical fitment concerns. It's the most important single element on the page for buyers planning their build. Here's an example showing the structure:
Aggressive front offsets at wider rim widths can produce rubbing against front fender liners and brake cooling duct outlets at full steering lock. Owners running this range commonly report fender liner trimming or aftermarket liner replacement as the documented solution.
Cars equipped with upgraded brake packages have tighter spoke-to-caliper clearance than cars with standard brakes. Confirm spoke-to-caliper clearance against your specific wheel design before committing.
Staggered configurations can produce front-to-rear rolling diameter mismatches that may stress AWD systems over time. Verify the math against your owner manual before committing — see the AWD rolling diameter section below for the full explanation.
The alert is structured with bold internal sub-headers so you can scan it for the specific concern that affects your build. Typical concerns covered:
Front fender liner clearance. Offset and width combinations that produce contact at full steering lock, particularly with track-compound tires.
Brake caliper clearance with upgraded brakes. Whether upgraded brake packages (CCB, BBK, M Performance, AMG-spec, etc.) constrain wheel design choices independently of offset.
Inner strut / knuckle clearance. Wide-front wheels at higher offsets sometimes contact inner suspension components.
AWD rolling diameter on staggered setups. Whether the platform's AWD system has known sensitivity to front-to-rear rolling diameter mismatch. (Long-form treatment below.)
Year-era differences. Whether a mid-generation refresh introduced fitment behavior changes that affect buyers shopping today.
If you're skimming a guide and don't have time to read the entire aftermarket section, read the platform alert. It's where the chassis-specific warnings live.
If your car is AWD and you're considering a staggered setup, the front-to-rear rolling diameter mismatch is the single most important variable to verify before committing. It's also the variable FMB explicitly does not characterize on your behalf. Here's why, and how to handle it.
Rolling diameter is the actual circumference a tire rolls through in one revolution. It's a function of the tire's section width, aspect ratio, and rim diameter — and slightly affected by load and inflation, but for fitment purposes the labeled spec is close enough.
When front and rear tires have different rolling diameters (because the staggered setup uses different tire sizes front to rear), the front wheels rotate at a slightly different rate than the rear wheels for any given vehicle speed. On a RWD car, this is harmless — the front wheels aren't driven, so they spin freely at whatever rate the tire size dictates. On an AWD car, the drivetrain must continuously reconcile that mismatch, and how much mismatch it tolerates varies by manufacturer.
Manufacturer AWD tolerance specifications vary widely across platforms — and FMB doesn't have the manufacturer-published tolerance data to make platform-by-platform comparisons authoritatively. Subaru, Audi quattro, BMW xDrive, Mercedes 4MATIC, Tesla AWD, and others each have their own specified tolerance, sometimes documented in the owner manual, sometimes only available through dealer service literature.
Naming specific manufacturer rigor levels in fitment content ("Subaru is strict, BMW is moderate") creates a liability risk for any buyer whose setup happens to fall outside their car's actual specification. FMB's position: document the tire dimensions of every staggered configuration, direct buyers to their owner manual for tolerance verification, and keep the on-FMB-side scope to what we can actually verify.
For any AWD staggered configuration you're considering:
1. Find your manufacturer's AWD rolling diameter tolerance. Owner manual, manufacturer technical service bulletins, dealer service literature, or platform-specific community FAQ entries. The tolerance is usually expressed as a maximum percentage difference between front and rear rolling diameters — common values are 1%, 1.5%, or 2%, but yours may differ.
2. Calculate the rolling diameter of each tire size in the setup. Many tire manufacturer websites publish this directly, or you can compute it: rolling diameter = (section width × aspect ratio × 2 / 25.4) + rim diameter, all in inches. For example, a 275/35R19 calculates as (275 × 0.35 × 2 / 25.4) + 19 = 26.58 inches.
3. Compute the percentage difference. ((larger diameter − smaller diameter) / larger diameter) × 100. If the front tire diameter is 26.0 inches and the rear is 26.6 inches, the difference is (26.6 − 26.0) / 26.6 × 100 = 2.26%.
4. Compare to your manufacturer's tolerance. If the calculated difference is within tolerance, the setup is mechanically compatible with your AWD system. If it exceeds tolerance, the setup may stress drivetrain components over time even if it fits the fenders cleanly.
An aftermarket staggered setup that's been documented working on many community builds may still be outside your specific car's AWD tolerance. Community evidence is useful but not authoritative for this specific question — the manufacturer's specification is what matters, and the only way to verify is to do the math against your own car's documented tolerance.
If a configuration documents at the edge of common tolerances (around 1.5-2% difference between front and rear rolling diameters), confirm with your manufacturer's spec before ordering. Many buyers in this position step down to a less aggressive rear tire — running a 275 instead of a 285, for example — which preserves the visual character of the staggered setup while bringing the rolling diameter back into tolerance.
The most important section on this page, editorially. The fitment guides are research documents — they tell you what owners have run, not what's guaranteed to work on your car. Here's the line FMB draws, in two halves:
The configuration's community context. When you place an order, FMB's team cross-references your specific configuration against your trim and brake package and against what's commonly documented on similar builds. If the setup you want falls outside what we've seen work on this platform, we'll flag it before you commit. This is the FMB sanity check.
The wheel itself. Before any aluminum is forged, our manufacturing partner verifies the wheel's backspace, brake caliper clearance for your specific brake package, and structural spec. This is the engineering verification.
Ride height clearance on lowered vehicles. The amount of suspension drop you run affects clearance to fenders and tire-to-fender contact in ways that depend on your specific coilover or spring choice, your alignment, and how the car settles. FMB cannot verify this for your car.
Specific tire brand or model behavior. Tires within the same size designation behave differently across brands and compounds. A 285/30R19 in one brand may contact the fender at a ride height where the same size in another brand doesn't. FMB doesn't test tire-by-tire and cannot verify this.
Alignment outcomes. The right camber, toe, and caster for your setup depend on your car, your driving style, your tires, and your installer's preferences. FMB doesn't prescribe alignment specs.
Suspension component interactions. If your car runs a non-OEM suspension setup, the geometry can move clearance points in ways that affect how a documented setup performs on your specific car.
AWD rolling diameter compatibility for staggered configurations. Per the section above, this is the buyer's responsibility against the manufacturer's specified tolerance.
Any fitment outcome that depends on variables set on the car by you or your installer. The car you're putting the wheels on has its own history, its own modifications, and its own state — variables FMB doesn't have visibility into. Your installer does.
The short version: FMB verifies the wheel and the configuration's plausibility against documented community evidence. The fitment outcome on your specific car is the conversation between you and your installer. The fitment guides give you the research foundation to make that conversation informed — they don't substitute for it.
If you're not sure whether a specific setup will work on your specific car, the right next step isn't to ask FMB for a fitment guarantee we can't honestly give — it's to bring the documented spec to a wheel-and-tire installer or shop and have them confirm against your car's current state.
Every fitment guide on this site uses the same structure, the same card data model, and the same verification scope described on this page. Pick a platform from the guide library and apply what you've read here — the guides become significantly more useful once the card elements are familiar. If you have questions about a specific setup on a specific car, the build form is the right place to start that conversation.